Process of dyeing combination draperylining fabrics and product



United States Patent'O PROCESS OF DYEING COMBINATION DRAPERY- LININGFABRICS AND PRODUCT Merwin R. Haskel, Scarsdale, N.Y., assignor toUnited Merchants and Manufacturers, Inc., New York, N.Y., a corporationof Delaware Filed Apr. 8, 1955, Ser. No. 500,238

6 Claims. (CI. 28-74) This invention relates to the production ofdraperies, and specifically such as comprise not only the. drapery facebut also a drapery back or lining, the face and the back being combinedand woven on a loom as one prior to dyeing, printing and finishingthereof. 7

Normally in the manufacture of draperies, if a lining therefore is to beincluded it is made up separately and apart from the preparation of thedrapery as such, considered apart from its lining, and the latter issubsequently stitched or otherwise affixed to the rear side of thedrapery piece after both components have been separately woven orotherwise constructed and dyed, printed, or otherwise finished.

As distinguished fromthe ordinary or conventional procedure justdescribed, it is proposed herein to produce drapery goods having abacking or lining, by a means and process such that both the draperyface and .trable, or at least substantially impervious to the subsequentapplication of dyestuffs and/or printing pastes to the drapery or facemember of the composite lined drapery article.

. Astill further object is a method of making composite lined draperieswherein the lining member has a. relatively close construction, that isrelative to the weaving construction of the face component of the drape,such that even without pre-treatment of the lining member the latter isrendered similarly substantially impervious to, and unaffected by, theapplication of printing pastes to the face of the drapery; this result,of course, being obtained in this embodiment of the invention by reasonof the closeness of the construction imparted during the weavingoperation to the lining, instead of being a result of the pre-treatmentas heretofore outlined and more fully explained below.

With the above and other objects in view, as will be apparent, thisinvention consists in the construction, combination, and arrangement ofparts, all as hereinafter more fully described, claimed, and illustratedin the accompanying drawings, wherein:

. Fig. l is a sectional representation taken transversely or.filling-wise of a very small portion of a double cloth;

1 Fig. 12 is a plan view of the samedouble cloth;

. Fig. 3 is another'transverse sectional illustration of a .doublecloth, showing in addition to what is illustrated in Fig. 1, the featureof both cloths being brought ,together and united as one at both selvageedges thereof, and also gives an indication of how the two cloths maybe, loosely connected or combined as by spaced stitching across thewidth ofthe two cloths; 1

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Fig. 4 is intended to represent the upper or face member of drape goodsproduced according to the present invention while in the greige state;

Fig. 5 is a representation of the back or lining face of the greigecloth of Fig. 4, the difference in construction being intended to berepresented by the closeness of the weave in this figure as contrastedwith the relatively open construction shown for the face in Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 illustrates the drapery face of the cloth shown in Fig. 4 afterit has been dyed or printed and otherwise finished;

Fig. 7 is the cloth of Fig. '5, that is a representation of the underportion or lining face of the composite lined drapery fabric after thelining has been dyed, printed, or otherwise finished;

Fig. 8 is a schematic representation of a system or apparatus assemblyadapted to carry out the steps of the process of the present invention,at least according to one embodiment thereof, and this method includesthe feature of pro-treating the drapery lining cloth so thatsubsequently it' will not be affected by after-dyeing or printing of theface of the drapery goods;

Fig. 9 presents a modification of the procedure sche maticallyillustrated in Fig. -8 whereby the step of pretreating the liningmember, is, or may be, dispensed with if the drapery face member isprinted instead of being after-dyed as shown in Fig. 8, and providedfurther that the construction of the lining member is not so open as topermit easy or substantial penetration of the printing pastes so thatthere is leakage of-the same in inordinate quantity from the under sideof the drapery face cloth into the upper or concealed face of the liningor its interstices.

In carrying out the present invention it is desirable to weave orotherwise fabricate two single pieces of cloth into one fabric. This isknown conventionally as a double cloth, wherein each one of the twosingle cloths has its own system of warp threads and filling threads,and both cloths are woven simultaneously on one and the same loom. Bothfabrics may be combined by interlacing some of the warp threads of oneof the two cloths into the other at spaced intervals. These doublecloths have been made and marketed for some time past and for a varietyof purposes, as for example, to reduce the cost of production ofheavyweight fabrics by using cheaper and lower grade cloth for thatwhich forms the back, or to add to the strength of certain grades offabrics or increase the bulk thereof, and for other purposes. So far asis known, however, double cloths have not been employed heretofore forthe manufacture of a composite lined drapery or drapery fabric in whichone of the two cloths forms the face or drapery, as such, while theother cloth forms the lining. Similarly, so far as is known, it is novelto pre-treat one member of a composite double cloth fabric for thepurpose of rendering it insensitive or resistant to subsequentafter-treatment of the other member or second cloth, at least in theproduction of lined draperies.

Thus it is proposed here to weave or otherwise fabricate piece goods inthe form of two individually distinct fabrics woven on the same loom,one to constitute the face of the drapery fabric, and the other thelining therefor. After making the double cloth in" this fashion thecomposite material is subsequently processed whereby the drapery fabricface may be printed or dyed in such wise that the color of either willnot penetrate through to the back and into the lining. After printing ordyeing the face or drapery, then the back or lining may be dyed orotherwise finished like an ordior other type cloth, as desired.

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Thus one piece of .goods is woven with two parts in the form of a doublecloth, the two members being attached to each other without disturbingthe general nature of each. Then the liningmember of the compositedouble cloth is dy'ed'or printed in sucha mannerthat it will resistafter-printing or dyeing of the face-member.

Referring now moreparticularly to the drawings, Fig. 1 shows a. sectionfillingwise of a portion of a double cloth, "and Fig. '2 is a.plan viewof the same. It will be noted that the cloth of Fig. 1 comprises aseries of warp yarns 10, 11, 12 interlaced with the filling threads, orpicks 13, '14, and comprises further a second series of Warp yarns 15,16'and 17 arranged inparallelrelation to, but unconnected with, theupper warp yarns 10,11,12. It will be seen further that the second groupof warps 15, '16, 17 have their own interlacing'filling threads 19, 18.Thus, for al.practical;purposes, at least insofar as is shown in Fig. land Fig. 2 for that matter, the two sets of co-acting warps'and'picks '14 and 19 respectively are individually distinct and altogetherindependent of each other. v p

The plan view of the double cloth shown in Fig. 2 carries a littlefurther-the illustration of this double cloth concept. As here 'shown,the two single cloth fabrics are shown as if one were superposed upontheother, each with its own individual and independentinterlacing ofwarp-and filling threads; that-is to say, the system of warp threads 20,21, while interlacing and co -acting with the-picks 22,23, arecompletely free and independent of the secondsystem of warp threads-24,co-act with their own filling threads 26, 27. Therefore, each set ofwarpthreads interlaces with its own system of filling, and eachclothis-independent of the other. The two cloths arestitchedorotherwisecombinedtogether so as to form one fabric, that; is, the warp, of thebottom fabric may bind into the face fabric, or. the fabric into thebottom-fabric. In other words, the warp or one ofthe two clothswillinterweavemore or less with the filling of the other. ,Manifestly,the way in-which the two cloths are combined intoone, as for example,the number of combining stitches, will have a certain elfect upon thefeel or the hand of thecomposite fabric, but for present purposes,namely,,the.production of drapery fabrics and draperies, the number ofthese combining stitches is not especially'critical, and there maybeconsiderable spacing therebetween. The numberof stitches necessarydesirably should be just sufiicient to prevent the two cloths fromballooning away-frorn-each other. d d

In short, the double cloth accordingto thepresentinvention may bedefined as a compoundjor composite fabric in which aface cloth -andaback cloth each with its own warp and fillingare combined during weaving. The two clothsmay be bound together by using certain of thethreads of the face or back, or if desired, a separate set of'binderthreads may be used. The upper or facc cloth may differ from the bottomor under cloth in several respects, viz.'in weaving construction, yarns,threads per inch, or in color, or may otherwise differ. On theotherhand, both sides'may be alike, or may show'apattern reversed in color.The weaves too may have variety,-as for example, twill, satin, jacquard,or other, and these may be combined with various finishes.

As shown in Fig. 3, the double cloth according to the presentinventionmay be stitche d togetherjwidthwis e at spaced intervals as by 'theconnecting or combining stitches 28. In additiom'the weaving patterng-onfthe loom maybe such as'to bring the two cloths 'inface-tcrfacecontiguous "relation"atthe'selvageedges, "of

' both cloths.

After thestep'ofwavingailofible cloth is emigrated according to the'presentinv'ention, and befofe it'is'dyed,

printed, or finisherL'it maybe represented a'ccofding 'to close as thatutilized in manufacturing or fabricating the lining member 32. Thereason for having a relatively close construction for the lining 32 isbecause this helps to Prevent penetration into or within the intersticesof the liner 32 by dyestuff or printing paste subsequently deposited onthe face member '31. This should not be understood to mean that the face31 cannot also be of "close construction as in "the case of the liningmember 32, it being sufficient, generally speaking, to confine thecloseness of construction to the liner 32. At'the same timeit will beunderstood that by imparting an open weave or construction to the facemember 31, the reception thereby and penetration therein of the dyestutfand printing compo'sit ion's'is for that reason facilitated.

Reference to Figs. 4 and 5 showing the respective faces of the facemember 31 and lining component 32 in the greige may be concluded byobserving that the key letters *F and W appearing at the sides and underthe-figures refer respectively -'to the filling threads and warps, withthe arrows indicating the'directions of travel thereof.

In Fig. '6 is shownthe dyed-or printed drapery fabric face 33, and Fig.7 illustrates the under side or lining member 34 of the presentcomposite lined drapery after the lining 34 has been dyed, printed,and/or otherwise finished.

A suitable'method for processing double cloths further according to thepresent invention is indicated diagrammatically in Fig. 8. According tothis embodimennafter the double cloth 31, 32 has been woven and while itis still in the greige state, it may be run through a printing assemblyto impart 'a resist or reserve to the lining member 32. Such apparatusmay comprise a rubber covered pressure roll 35, mounted on the stand 36,and constructed to -rota-tablyfco'-act with 'as'uitably engraved printroller -37, the print-roll 37 being in sliding contact with the'periphery'of a furnisher'roll 38 which deposits a supply of anydesired'resist composition39. The specificresist employed will, ofcourse, depend on a number of factors, such as the nature of the fiberfrom which the goods'are "woven, and the nature of the printingcompositionior 'dy'estulf selected. These limitations or factors being-'taken into account, it may be'said generally that resins such asu'rea'formaldehyde and melamine formaldehyde, or waxes, or gums, orcompositions of other materials may make up the resist composition.

Ihe'arrangement or assembly of aprinter unit's'een'in Fig. 8 is entirelyconventional, it being understood that astheseveral rollers 35, 37 and38'rotate'in unison, the resist'coinposition 39 travels around theworkingsurfac'e of'the furnisher roll 38 whereby it'comes'in contactwith, and is deposited on, the operating surface of the engraved roll'37. The greige double cloth 31, 32 is forced through the'nip of theprinting rolls 3537 by any suitable power means,"-as for example, a'motor (not shown), and atthat time'a deposit of the resist 39is'applied to'the exposed "outer lining surface 32 of the double'cloth31, 32. As 'will 'be understood, thisresist 39 maybe transferred'fromthe engr'aved portions of the print roll 37 to thc'free sur- "faceoftlie liner cloth 32 either in the form of apattern as by localapplication, or as an all-over deposit, depending upon the'extent of theengraving upon the printer 'roll 37.

It may be pointed out here, however, thatif it is intended'subsequentlyto dye or apply color all-over to the i-drapery fab'ricface 31, then :itwill be' advisable to give an all-over application-of resist materialz39over the entire face orsfree 'surface'of the liner 32. 0n the mtherhand, if "instead ofdyeing the drapery clothrface 31 it is 'intendedmerely to print-it locally, then-itwill -b'e snfi icient 'to print-tacorresponding pattern of local application with'a "resist-upon the freesurface of the remainder of the face 31.

remainder of the lining 32 as the color printed areas or portions of theface member 31 occupy in relation to the Thus may be produced a doublecloth drapery fabric comprising a lining locally printed with a resist,and a face having printed portions in registration with the locallyprinted areas of the lining.

According to the scheme of Fig. 8, it is in that instance proposedsubsequently to give an all-over application of dyestuif to the draperyface 31, and for that reason, as explained, it will be understood thatthe working surface of the printer roll 37 carries a plurality ofoblique lines or cuttings all around its periphery from one end of theprint roller 37 to the opposite end thereof. Thereby a sufficient amountof resistcomposition 39 will be deposited in the multitude of engravingsof the print roll 37 to insure an all-over application thereof, that isof the resist, to the free surface of the liner member 32 of the doublecloth 31, 32 as itpasses through the nip of the co-operating print andpressure rolls 37-35.

Further, according to the embodiment of the invention suggested in Fig.8 of the drawings hereof, after the reserve or resist composition 39 hasbeen deposited as an all-over application to the liner surface 32, asuitable drying interval I may be allowed before dyeing the draperycloth surface, 31. Any conventional drying apparatus may be employed forthis surface, or the material simply may be air dried at roomtemperature. Following the drying of the resist on and within the fibersof the liner surface 32, the Whole composite double cloth 31, 32 in thegreige may be dunked or immersed in a dye bath 40 as by unwinding itfrom left-off stand 41 and training it over guides 42 and 43. In thisstep of the procedure the dyestuff is soaked up and retained only by theuntreated surface 31 of the double cloth 31, 32. As will be understood,the dyebath or dyestuff composition has no effect upon, and is notretained by, the liner 32 which has been pre-treated as described with aresist composition 39 for the express purpose of making the liner 32impervious or impenetrable to the dyestuff contained in the dyebath 40.

After the application of the dyestuff 40, further in accordance with theprocesses outlined in Fig. 8 hereof, the composite resist printed liner32 and dyed drapery face 31, still in the form of a double cloth, may beled out of the dyebath 40 through the nip of the squeeze rolls 44 and 45where excess dye liquor is removed therefrom, and then sent to a dryingoven 46 or an equivalent device where the double cloth may be arrangedin the form of a plurality of festoons as by being trained over thespaced guide members 47, 48. Alternate suitable drying means, of course,may also be employed, it being understood that obviously the drying ovenis not critical.

Following the step of drying, the cloth may be wound up on a take-uproll 49, rotating in a suitable stand 50, and thereafter otherwisetreated or finished according to conventional or standard finishingprocedures. Subsequently the double cloth which has now been dyed on itsdrapery portion or face 33, and resist printed on its liner face 34, andafter-treated according to any desired finishing specifications, may becut up by conventional methods into finished articles or draperies.

A modification of the present invention shown in Fig. 9 contemplates thesubstitution of the step of color printing for the step of dyeing of thedrapery face 31. For that reason the step of reserve printing of theliner face 32 which is shown in Fig. 8 and described above iseliminated. The reason for this omission is that in this case theweaving construction of the liner member 32 is so close or dense thatthis construction in and of itself is suficient, without the aid of areserve printing or application of resist composition, to prevent theentrance or passage into the lining 32 of the printing paste subsequently deposited on the drapery face 31 of the double composite cloth31, 32. It should not be understood from this that in this instance theconstruction of the cloth lining 32 necessarily must be closer than thatrequired in the case of the pre-treatment by reserve or resist printingas seen in Fig. 8. On the contrary, it is altogether practical to useliner cloth 32 which has exactly the same construction for bothembodiments; namely, for pre-printing a reserve or resist followed bydyeing as shown in Fig. 8, and color printing only instead of dyeing,without any pre-printing of a resist, as seen in Fig. 9. The reason forthe difference in the two procedures is that in dyeing and in printingthe face 31 compositions of differing viscosities are employed. That isto say, in the case of dyeing as per Fig. 8, the composition containedin the dyebath 40 is much less viscous, or its Viscosity is muchlower-than that of the printing paste applied to the drapery face 31 asper Fig. 9. Therefore, because the printing paste is much thicker ormore sticky than the material in the dyebath 40, it is much more readilycontrolled so far as the extent and depth of penet'ration is concerned.In the case of the dyebath there is virtually no control, or at leastless control, of the depth of penetration of the dyeing composition: andthus the step of pre-printing with a resist for the lining material 32is indicated. Where the paste is employed, however, this extra controlby pre-treatment is not indicated and is unnecessary for the reasonsstated.

Proceeding now to a further description of the modification of Fig. 9,this apprehends a less complex arrangement of apparatus suitable forcarrying out the embodiment of color printing without pre-treatment.This may comprise, as shown, the let-01f reel 51, rotating in a fixedstand 52 so as to unwind therefrom an untreated double cloth 31, 32,which, after passage over the leasing rods 53 and 54, is passed by anysuitable motive means (not shown) into the nip made by a conventionalthree ro'll printer unit comprising a rubber covered pressure roll 55,an applicator or printing roll 56, and the furnisher roll 57. Thisassembly of rollers 55-57 is constructed and arranged to receive adeposit of color printing paste 58 of any desired shade or combinationof colors, and to deposit the same on the rotating surface of the printroll 56, from which the color paste 58 is transferred to the face orfree surface 31 of the composite drapery material 31, 32. Subsequently,the composite material having its drapery face 31 color printed with anydesired pattern, and having its under face or liner 32 still in thegreige, that is not printed, and undyed, may be dried and/or cured as bymeans of an oven 59, or other suitable heating device, and then wound upon a take-up roll 60 for further or final disposition.

It will be appreciated, of course, that with respect to the modificationof Fig. 9, although as described above this involves omission orelimination of the step of pretreatment by the appl-ication of a reserveor resist composition to the liner surface 32 of the composite draperymaterial 31, 32, nevertheless, if desired, there may be substituted forthe step of pre-printing with a reserve the step of pro-dyeing the liner32, and alternatively the step of pre-printing the same liner 32 notwith a resist material but rather with a color print paste so that anattractive design or pattern may be added to the lining face 32, and inthis instance, of course, the effect would be to have a drapery fabricwith two faces, both of which, front and back, are design printed.

It will also be understood, of course, that in addition to theapplication of reserves or resists and of dyestuffs and of printingpastes, the invention presumes or presupposes that in appropriateinstances the procedure may further include treating the cloth byimpregnating the same with thermosetting and/or thermoplastic or otherresins or agents to prevent undue shrinkage of the double cloth 33, 34and promote dimensional stability thereof, or for related or otherobjects. Such resins or agents may be applied individually orincorporated in the dyebath or resist or color printing pastes.

It is further intended herein that as another alternate procedure to theembodiment shown in Fig. 8 which has the step of pre-printing with aresist, there may be sub- 7 stituteil theuse-for the liner component ofyarns made "from 'fibers of such-composition that this lining material32 m no affinity forthe particular dyestufi subsequently applied totheface 31 of the drapery. For example, the dyestutf-known as NeutracylYellow N-and-so1d'by the Du Pont de Nem'ou'rs Company, introducesfast-'to-light reddish-yellow shades of color'to 'both nylon'and woolfrom neutral dyebat'hs. However, *the same material shows little or nostaining or other elfect on cottoua'nd the -synthetic*cellulosicfibe'rs. 'Ihu's the-present double clotl'i "maybe made of nylon for theface and acetate 'ray'o'n *for the back or lining. After'weaving, thewhole fabric may be dyed in aba th O'fthe Du "Pout Neuti'acyl Yellow 'N.The 'dye will color only the nylon race component, leaving substantially'unalfect'e'd the lining, since the latter ismadeof fibers'having-noreal affinity forsuch coloring composition.

Furthermore, although "as described above the several procedures may notalways-be continuous-from'b'eginning to'end, neverthelessitis intendedto-be within the scope ,of this 1 invention" to include" continuous 'anduninterrupted processes; for examplqin 'a description relating to Fig.-8, it is-said that after the application of the resist printingcomposition 39 there may be a drying interval, and-the apparatusschematically illustrated suggests'at that point a stoppage ofthematerial in transit. It must beunder- "stood ho'wever, thatinpractice there-need not necessarily 'be such a stoppage, and thatthecomponents making'up (the-resist composition may 'be selected with aview to "the "desirability of quick'drying so that the need foranystoppage would be 'elirriinated; and, of course,'instea'd of "merelyrelying on the inclusion of quick drying components inthereserveprinting composition there might be substituted therefor, or used inconjunction'thereu'rith, auiiliai'y apparatus, as for ex-ample, a bank,or more than one-bankyof' infra'red"drying lamps.

what is claime d is:

"1. Double cloth drapery fabric comprising a lining locally printed witha resist, and a face "having color printed portions in registration withthe locally printed areas of thelining.

2. Method of making double cloth drapery-fabric comprising the stepsofil'ocallyprinting a resist onone of 'the two 'cloths making 'up-th'edouble cloth, while preventing any penetration of the nesist into thesecond or the double cloths, and subsequently locally applying a colorprinting paste to 'the'secon'd cloth-while preventin gtpenetration ofthe resist rp'rinted firstcloth by the c'olor' p'rint- -ing paste, thelocallly cdlbnprinted portions 'ofthe -s'econd clothbeing' inregistration with the locally resist-printed 3. Composite'lin'ed'drapery fabric comprising-a double cloth having a printed faceand an unprinted "lining pre- -"tr'eate'tl with a resi st rendering thesurface ofthe lining impenetrable to coloring'composition.

4. "Composite lined drapery fabric comprising a double cloth having agreige face and a liner incorporating -'a resist rendering "the surfaceof the diner impenetrable to any coloring composition subsequentlyapplied to the greige face.

'5. Composite lined draperytabric; comprising a -'double el'oth havin'ga color-carrying -face and a lining incompatible with 'passage'dfcolorfrom the faceyto said lining.

'6. Composite lined-drapery fabric comprising a double 'cloth havingaface member and "aliner pre-tr'eate'd with aresist to render said linerincompatible with passage 'ofcolor from' the 'face member to the liner.

References 'Cited inthe file of this. patent UNITED STATES PATENTS15,959 .Derby Oct. '21, 1856 499,687 -'Whiteheatl-etal June 13, -1 893499,690 Whitehead "et al June 13,1893 708,907 :McLean Sept.9, 1902779,300 Morton '"Ian. 3, 1905 ,1',474,182 Stroock Nov. I3, 19231,622,013 Whiting Mar. 22, '1927 2,068,770 'Schwarzchild I an. 26, 19372,638,129 Van Risseghem May 12,1953

FOREIGN PATENTS 5,087 'Great Britain Mar.'4,"1'903

